I've ordered a pile of stuff from On-one ready for the 'new project'. I'm keeping most of it secret but I thought I would share these Mungo bars with you

Firstly I can assure you that bar tape will not be staying. I only used it because it was free and I know i'm going to be pulling it off in a few weeks time. I'm either going to move the bars over to the new project or I will be playing around with the position of the brake levers. I ordered some brown leather tape from Wiggle weeks ago but i'm still waiting for it to come into stock. Besides, I didn't want to waste my expensive tape until I know I wont be pulling the bar off any time soon.
The Mungo bars look like a normal set of bars that someones sat on and bent the ends upwards. It's much easier to get 'on the drops' with these bars. I hardly ever used the drops on the fixie. Yet I found myself using them a lot with these bars. I actually found it easier to use the drops while out of the saddle going uphill than using the tops of the bar.
The brakes are easier to use at an angle. It's easier to grab the end of the brake lever and therefore apply more force.
You're not as areodynamic using these bars as you are using a traditional set and riding on the drops; Not only are you not as low down but your shoulders are further apart. But as I never rode on the drops anyway this shouldn't be a problem.
The Mungo bars are too wide to get through anti-motorcycling barriers. I have 6 of these barriers to get through on my commute. It never occured to me these bars would be too wide. To get the bike through these barriers with these bars fitted I have to stop, turn the bar to the side, and then lift the front wheel through.
With traditional bars I can just role through the barriers, all be it very slowly. (I nearly always catch my sholder or my bag).
And last but not least they look wrong! I just hope they look a lot better with the correct bar tape.





I walked out of work last night and onto the industrial site road. It had been 



